2007 chevy impala battery replacement

Posting this for my aunt. She has a 2005 Toyota Camry LE V6 with about 89,000 miles. The car battery died about 2 months ago and she had it replaced. Just a few days ago, the Camry failed the Smog test due to OBD2 not being radio. I helped her drive about 150 miles. When I took her car to Autozone, the scan showed codes C0210 and C0215 for ABS sensor wiring. I took it to OReilly a couple blocks away for a second scan and the employee said there is nothing wrong with the car and all the codes were cleared (e.g., O2, evap).
Questions:

1. Is the car clear for SMOG?
2. Why is there a difference between the Autozone and OReilly scans? Will the ABS codes be an issue with clearing SMOG? (When the car is started, no ABS or check engine lights are on)
3. What are some fixes for C0210 and C0215? And how much does these repairs normally run?

So my car has been doing this thing where if I have to make a right turn and I am obviously stopped before I turn then the engine seems to just turn off or at least it feels like it because I can't accelerate but the battery and everything else is on as normal. I've always had this flashing orange "(!)" Because the last time I got my tire replaced the guy must have done something to where ever since then the signal stays on for the tire needing to be changed. But when I have this issue when I'm making right turns, it will flash about three times or so. Around the same time that this started happening, less than 2 weeks and less than 800 miles ago, it will also do this thing where if I am stopped or nearly stopped and I attempt to accelerate a little bit then it will hiccup kind of skip and jump and feel like it's about to turn off unless I do an excessive amount of pushing down on the gas. Last similar thing that it does for the same length of time is if I leave my car in park but leave my car completely turned on then within a few moments it won't be on. The battery and everything will be but the engine is just off as if I turned the car off myself.
Edit to add: I got my alternator replaced a few months ago and I'm really hoping it's not anything that difficult or expensive.

• Total budget (in local currency) and country of purchase. Please do not use USD unless purchasing in the US: Pre-Tax: $1200
  
• Are you open to refurbs/used?
  No
  
• How would you prioritize form factor (ultrabook, 2-in-1, etc.), build quality, performance, and battery life?
  Build quality, specifically a solid feeling chassis. Battery life is 2nd priority. A battery that is replaceable once it eventually wears out is preferred (as in easy to change in a repair type setting, not hot swappable).
  
• How important is weight and thinness to you?
  Weight does not matter to me, thinness is nice but I prefer a solid chassis(no deck flex) to a thin one.
  
• Do you have a preferred screen size? If indifferent, put N/A.
  N/A
  
• Are you doing any CAD/video editing/photo editing/gaming? List which programs/games you desire to run.
  At least a 3060 for gaming. Will primarily be used for web developing.
  
• If you're gaming, do you have certain games you want to play? At what settings and FPS do you want?
  Apex Legends, World of Warcraft, Diablo IV. I have a serious desktop gaming PC and I don’t care what quality the games run at on this laptop, I specifically want a minimum of a rtx 3060 in it.
  
• Any specific requirements such as good keyboard, reliable build quality, touch-screen, finger-print reader, optical drive or good input devices (keyboard/touchpad)?
  No ten-key on the keyboard. An IR camera for windows hello login would be nice but not necessary.
  
• Leave any finishing thoughts here that you may feel are necessary and beneficial to the discussion.
  I’m looking for a laptop that has a decent keyboard, a solid chassis and the ability to change the battery in the future.
  

I have a 2020 Ram Promaster City Tradesman SLT that overheated yesterday, most likely due to the radiator fan not functioning. I have had this fan stop working before and replaced it about a year ago without issue. I feel pretty confident the fan is the cause again after attempting to jumpstart the fan from the battery to no avail.
My main question is: when it overheated yesterday while idling in a parking lot, about 70%ish of the coolant leaked out before I noticed the engine smoking and shut it down. I filled the coolant back up today and got the car up to operating temp and put the AC on for a minute or two and didn't replicate the leak. The fan still doesn't spin as expected and I didn't let the van overheat again by running the AC long enough without the fan spinning.
What could have caused the leak to dump so much coolant quickly that wouldn't have happened again today? I'm an idiot with cars so I didn't know how to diagnose without physically seeing the leak replicated. I ordered a new fan but I assume something else may need work if it was leaking.
Thanks!

I have a 2020 Ram Promaster City Tradesman SLT that overheated yesterday, most likely due to the radiator fan not functioning. I have had this fan stop working before and replaced it about a year ago without issue. I feel pretty confident the fan is the cause again after attempting to jumpstart the fan from the battery to no avail.
My main question is: when it overheated yesterday while idling in a parking lot, about 70%ish of the coolant leaked out before I noticed the engine smoking and shut it down. I filled the coolant back up today and got the car up to operating temp and put the AC on for a minute or two and didn't replicate the leak. The fan still doesn't spin as expected and I didn't let the van overheat again by running the AC long enough without the fan spinning.
What could have caused the leak to dump so much coolant quickly that wouldn't have happened again today? I'm an idiot with cars so I didn't know how to diagnose without physically seeing the leak replicated. I ordered a new fan but I assume something else may need work if it was leaking.
Thanks!

Recently had an alternator go bad while driving, replaced and was thankfully back in business. How fast do batteries drain without the alternator? Once I got the alert I pulled over, but had me thinking. 40 miles were left in the trip, but played it safe. Any input appreciated

I threw my mouse at the monitor and it stopped working, so I dissasembled it and reasembled and it worked for 2 seconds and then died again. Nothing seems to be lose on the PCB and it only seems dirty. Is there anything glaring that Im missing ?
Also, does anybody know where can I get a replacement PCB for this type of product? / Could it be the battery somehow ?
https://imgur.com/a/XwnPgQR
Thank you all.

Hello! So Im building my first ever Gundam and I know very little. My question is if I can build Kyrios without the LED unit or is it a necessary part for construction? I didn't realize It contained a seperatly sold piece!
Thanks for all help and input! I hope this is the right place to reach out for help?

Just had an interesting (positive!) experience with our local dealership and a dead battery.
First, I apparently missed or never saw the battery recall information. I had no idea there was an issue with the batteries.
We'd just returned home from an extended trip and our battery was dead on our 2019 Forester. Not surprising since it sat for a while and the battery is the original when we purchased the vehicle new in 2019.
Subaru Roadside jumped me the next morning and I decided to drive to the dealership. They were not busy and were able to take a look. They did the curbside basic battery test and it failed on "cold cranks" and they told me I could limp it along or get a replacement for $500 dollars.
We have one car (and have had some issues with the auto-shutoff feature) so I decided to go forward with the replacement. They took the car back and within minutes came back to me with a sticky note with the phone number to reach out to the Subaru Battery Settlement hotline, along with instructions on how to get to the right place in the phone tree to talk with a human.
I called, spoke with a human, gave them my VIN, determined my vehicle was in the affected class, and I received a reference number to give back to the dealer. Gave the dealer the code, they did a more extensive test (I gathered the code might unlock a tool developed by Interstate Battery to determine if the battery is actually bad), got news that it both needed to be replaced and would be completely free.
A few hours later I drove away with a brand new battery for free from a recall I didn't even know about. 10/10 experience, but come on how did they ship this cars with such an underpowered battery!
TLDR - Didn't know about https://www.subarubatterysettlement.com. My battery died, took it to the dealer, they told me about the settlement and I got a free battery out of it.

after some years I replaced the battery of my good ol trusted xiaomi redmi note 5 pro (MIUI 11.0.2). Everything works as expected except for making and receiving phone calls or whatsapp calls:
for a split second the phone call appears on screen then the screen goes black and the phone is switched off completely.
The strangest part is that if the phone is being charged during the call everything works. If I pull the plug during the call it again shuts down.
This issue sounds too stupid but now it's something personal and I would really like to find a solution. Can anyone help me?
List of stuff I tried unsuccessfully:

• put old battery back in
• checked many hardware components (proximity sensor, microphone, RAM, ...)
• switched on lots of functions (LED, hotspot, speaker on max volume, high power device via USB) to check that the battery can supply a decent amount of power
• updated all apps
• asked chatGPT for its wisdom but no luck lol

I drive a 09 Rav4 and I was waiting to turn at a red. Once the light went green I turned but soon after all the lights (battery, engine, etc.) came on and the car slowly stopped accelerating when I pushed the gas. I pulled over and turned the car off then back on and it started fine and took me to my destination without an issue. This definitely isn’t something I want to just look past. Any ideas of what could be wrong? I just replaced the alternator and battery so that’s why I am confused.

Hey everyone, i am strongly considering getting my first Jeep Grand Cherokee (used) as I have been a Chevy Impala driver my whole life adult life and they stopped making them and they are hard to find. I found this 2020 jeep Grand Cherokee Limited Supreme ( it has all the bells and whistles of the overland) but i'm not sure what's the lookout for in terms of typical Cherokee bad parts.
I hear that the Jeep Cherokee is a great vehicle and also the worst vehicle to buy, so I'm coming here for honest advice on should I make this investment or just stay away and if I should watch should I look out for a while I'm inspecting the vehicle this week.
I plan on trying to get them down to 25K was trade me in my older car, so any input would be appreciated.

So working on my Honda CRV 2007 and was planning on changing the serpentine belt and tensioner pulley due to a rattling noise…in the process of removing the tire THREE wheel studs broke of so now I am trying to attempt removal of the wheel hub BUT one of the two caliper bracket bolts are stuck on TIGHT!!! I am using a Dewalt Max XR 1/2 inch impact wrench and seeing absolutely no movement. Used Pb Blaster to lubricate and no effect either. Ran the wrench on setting #3 for a minute multiple times with no luck.
My 3/8 breaker bar 18in broke in the attempt as well…so gonna try getting it replaced or exchanged for the 1/2 inch pro quality. Cheater pipe was a pvc since I don’t have anything else as a sub.
The only other tool I have is a mini torch but not sure if this is safe or if it will help.
On a side note do I NEED to raise the stake on the spindle nut prior to removal!? Or would an impact wrench work fine with little to no damage?
Using the following link as ref. knuckle_hub_wheel_bearing_replacement
Any and all advice will be appreciated!

For context: 2014 Chevy Cruze LT with ~90k miles on it
I went to start my car the other day and the battery was dead. I checked under the hood while waiting for a jump and saw a decent amount of corrosion on my negative terminal. I scraped it out of the way for the jump and settled on just getting a new battery since I've had this one for almost 6 years already.
I let it run for a few minutes and also had a pretty long drive home so I was hoping that it would start when I went to buy the new battery the following day. Instead it didn't start and had a few faults one being (AC off due to high engine temp) despite the engine obviously being cold. I assumed this was just a symptom of a dead battery, so I jumped it at home and it produced the same high temp message and the engine fan was roaring at full blast despite the engine being around 65 degrees.
Could this all be due to the potentially bad battery or does this mean a temperature sensor or something even more serious is bad as well? Could the temperature sensor or something failed and the engine fan ran killing the battery? Also is it safe to make a short drive to get a new battery / potentially go to a mechanic with the engine fan running so hard or could this possibly damage it?
Any advice is appreciated

Over the past few months the locked areas designated for materials and space for employees to leave their work tools have been broken into. The thieves mainly steal batteries, wire, and power tools each instance. One of the incidents in particular occurred because the foreman forgot to lock up at the end of the day.
After each incident my husband and his coworkers have been able to locate the tools being sold on Facebook marketplace. Each time it is the same seller. My husband’s coworkers have been able to recover some tools back from the seller because they have records of the serial numbers and they have their names written on the tools. However, they have been unable to recover items that have already been sold off. The cops say they can’t do anything else because seller claims a friend gave them the tools. The seller also works on the job site for a different company.
My husbands coworkers have been stuck paying thousands of dollars to replace the stolen tools and nothing is being done to prevent future occurrences. At this point what actions can my husband and his coworkers take?

Need some help with starting my Westinghouse 8500W/7000W generator. It has good compression and created spark but won’t run. If I spray starter fluid into the carb, it will start on the 2nd pull for about half a second then shut itself off. Here is a list of things I have done:
-Replaced the old gas with new gas (did this twice) -Cleaned the carb as best I could (it was pretty dirty and is rusted where the float sits, but now fuel flows into the carb and the injection hole is clean) -Unclogged the fuel line -Added oil -Replaced the spark plug with a good one (both of them seem to work fine) -Sanded off some of the rust where the ignition coil contacts with the engine (don’t know what this part is called)
It’s missing the battery and air filter cover. If I remove the yellow thing sticking out of the carburetor, fuel leaks out of it; I don’t know what it’s supposed to connect to. Gas tank is slightly rusted.
I think it might need a new carb, but please share some advice on what else to check. First time dealing with an electric start motor. I’m running out of ideas.

Ok some background. My spouse and I live in a skoolie. Our cat recently broke our TV and we are looking to replace it. I want to get a projector, but my spouse worries that we won't be able to see it during the day. Our windows have perforated vinyl and let through about a third of the light. It is nice solar lighting during the day.
I want a battery powered projector because everything in our bus is very portable including our bed. I the few things we have to be as versatile as possible so anything that stores it's own energy is always a big plus. I've read that to see a projector clearly even in daylight you need like 4000 lumens, but the battery powered projectors I have seen don't really go above 1000.
Inside the bus I don't expect us to project it to more that 55" outside though would likely be larger. What do you all recommend or should we just go with a TV?