Dewalt 125000 btu heater
diy heat treatment
2023.03.28 05:58 Evermj diy heat treatment
Looking into options for heat treatment. Already had "professional" come out and spray bedrooms and living room to no avail. Spent a week moving clutter to a storage area and super cleaning everywhere. He claimed there would be an uptick in activity and then the bugs would just die for residual. Since he didn't see much activity upon inspection he was very convinced we would only need one application at for around $650.
I gave it 2 weeks after he treated and the uptick in activity honestly stayed about the same as before treatment. Maybe a slight improvement at best (the living room has been epicenter and still would get at least one bite i noticed nightly while sitting on couch). He was insistent we not spray any other pesticide and just call him for a treatment as anything we sprayed would make his stuff not work (common sense tells me this is probably a bs claim). After basically 2 weeks of no improvement i bought some Ortho.
Almost immediately after applying Ortho the bugs went away! After each spray i get about 2 weeks of no noticeable bites then they seem to remerge from the ashes. That being said i only notice a bite or bug every few days typically so feel like I've made some real progress. Its been at the expense of spraying a lot of toxic chemicals in the house and I'm starting to question the health impacts if I continue to do this for family and pets! I've also been using diatomaceous earth not sure to what level this has been having an impact plus my house looks like we had the best cocaine party of the century!
I'm considering trying to a diy heat treatment of the house now. I did find a place a few hours away to rent heaters for around $400 a day plus delivery (probably closer to 550 with miles). I looked online and non of the electric options look too enticing.
Been brainstorming and wondering if it would be possible to by a space heater thinking this model - https://www.harborfreight.com/30000-60000-btu-forced-air-propane-portable-heater-59567.html? then fashioning some type of tubing. Any suggestions on tubing?
From here room by room I would tape off with plastic the doorways to room and insulate around window. Plan on buying something to measure temperature in various areas (curious if any cheap for thermal gun). The adding a few large fans to circulate heat. Then fire up the space heater outside, remove all people and pets and periodically go inside and check temp of room etc shooting for 150 to 160.
Anyone tried a similar endeavor? Any suggestions on what I could use to vent the heat into the house or would everything just melt? Would the btus on the space heater be hot enough to reach this type of temperature? Biggest room to treat is around 10x15 feet. I know the risks of space heaters in enclosed areas, assuming this would be safer as the heat is actually outside but fully plan on venting entire house before moving pets and family back inside? Also would it be dangerous for me to spend a few mins inside at a time with this arrangement?
Whats the verdict crazy plan or just crazy enough to work? Would really love if I could get away with spending $1000 or less and have the ability to do future treatments with the equipment contrasted to the 2 days id have to pay for rental to most likely.
submitted by Evermj to Bedbugs [link] [comments]
I gave it 2 weeks after he treated and the uptick in activity honestly stayed about the same as before treatment. Maybe a slight improvement at best (the living room has been epicenter and still would get at least one bite i noticed nightly while sitting on couch). He was insistent we not spray any other pesticide and just call him for a treatment as anything we sprayed would make his stuff not work (common sense tells me this is probably a bs claim). After basically 2 weeks of no improvement i bought some Ortho.
Almost immediately after applying Ortho the bugs went away! After each spray i get about 2 weeks of no noticeable bites then they seem to remerge from the ashes. That being said i only notice a bite or bug every few days typically so feel like I've made some real progress. Its been at the expense of spraying a lot of toxic chemicals in the house and I'm starting to question the health impacts if I continue to do this for family and pets! I've also been using diatomaceous earth not sure to what level this has been having an impact plus my house looks like we had the best cocaine party of the century!
I'm considering trying to a diy heat treatment of the house now. I did find a place a few hours away to rent heaters for around $400 a day plus delivery (probably closer to 550 with miles). I looked online and non of the electric options look too enticing.
Been brainstorming and wondering if it would be possible to by a space heater thinking this model - https://www.harborfreight.com/30000-60000-btu-forced-air-propane-portable-heater-59567.html? then fashioning some type of tubing. Any suggestions on tubing?
From here room by room I would tape off with plastic the doorways to room and insulate around window. Plan on buying something to measure temperature in various areas (curious if any cheap for thermal gun). The adding a few large fans to circulate heat. Then fire up the space heater outside, remove all people and pets and periodically go inside and check temp of room etc shooting for 150 to 160.
Anyone tried a similar endeavor? Any suggestions on what I could use to vent the heat into the house or would everything just melt? Would the btus on the space heater be hot enough to reach this type of temperature? Biggest room to treat is around 10x15 feet. I know the risks of space heaters in enclosed areas, assuming this would be safer as the heat is actually outside but fully plan on venting entire house before moving pets and family back inside? Also would it be dangerous for me to spend a few mins inside at a time with this arrangement?
Whats the verdict crazy plan or just crazy enough to work? Would really love if I could get away with spending $1000 or less and have the ability to do future treatments with the equipment contrasted to the 2 days id have to pay for rental to most likely.
2023.03.28 01:46 squatchinthesewoods What size heater as replacement?
So I almost got CO poisoning the other night in my new to me apartment. The heater is apparently leaking from the back of the heating element. It was a dayton wall heater built in 1962 and is 35,000BTU.
Anyways it needs replaced and I since I pay the gas bill I want to have a say in the unit that goes in. Is 35,000BTU natural gas heater too much for a 350 sq ft one bedroom apartment? It is a garden level with low 6.5ft ceilings. Each room is approximately 180 sq ft. The smallest wall heater that’ll fit into my wall slot is is a williams 25k BTU unit.
Should I instead have my landlord look into a smaller unit around 7-8k BTU? Would electric be easier and cheaper? Keep in mind the hole in my wall thats there currently and would need to be patched should I go with something smaller.
submitted by squatchinthesewoods to hvacadvice [link] [comments]
Anyways it needs replaced and I since I pay the gas bill I want to have a say in the unit that goes in. Is 35,000BTU natural gas heater too much for a 350 sq ft one bedroom apartment? It is a garden level with low 6.5ft ceilings. Each room is approximately 180 sq ft. The smallest wall heater that’ll fit into my wall slot is is a williams 25k BTU unit.
Should I instead have my landlord look into a smaller unit around 7-8k BTU? Would electric be easier and cheaper? Keep in mind the hole in my wall thats there currently and would need to be patched should I go with something smaller.
2023.03.28 00:50 666MF American Standard Gas Heater Only Has Warm Water No Matter How High the Setting
 | I had a brand new gas heater installed a few weeks ago. The plumber didn’t like the length of the nipple from the gas line so he came back and shortened it. Before he did that it worked wonderfully. After he shortened it we can only get luke warm water. You can see in the image of the pilot lighter it’s set to 2 which before he made the switch would be super hot. Trying to get the plumber back to look at it but he can’t make it back for a while. Is there a way I can reset to get it to work correctly? I turned it off and followed the instructions on the pilot lighter several times to no avail. Plumber says it should recycle itself but it’s been a week. Any suggestions are welcome. submitted by 666MF to askaplumber [link] [comments] |
2023.03.26 03:43 silver_chief2 Basic dumb question about fitting on Nat Gas supplies vs appliances
As I understand it, the gas supply is usually male pipe thread followed by a gas valve with two female pipe threads. Either the supply or the appliance needs a compression fitting to serve as a union that can spin. How is this normally done?
I hooked up my gas dryer long ago. I recently had a heating emergency and did not want my pipes to freeze. I unhooked the dryer and hooked up a 30K BTU vent-ess gas heater, on a low setting in the basement. I did soap bubbles and used a gas detect wand. No problems. Now I want to use a couple brass tees and valves to make a small manifold to allow the heater to be turned on if needed.
The heater has a pipe thread and the dryer a compression fitting I think. What is normal?
submitted by silver_chief2 to askaplumber [link] [comments]
I hooked up my gas dryer long ago. I recently had a heating emergency and did not want my pipes to freeze. I unhooked the dryer and hooked up a 30K BTU vent-ess gas heater, on a low setting in the basement. I did soap bubbles and used a gas detect wand. No problems. Now I want to use a couple brass tees and valves to make a small manifold to allow the heater to be turned on if needed.
The heater has a pipe thread and the dryer a compression fitting I think. What is normal?
2023.03.25 23:11 BASE1530 Home garage improvements. Added a 100k btu heater and an air filtration for the buffing area. Here’s a quick walk around.
 | submitted by BASE1530 to garageporn [link] [comments] |
2023.03.25 22:37 BASE1530 Quick walkthrough of my home garage. Upgraded my old heater to a 100k btu unit and added an air filtration system to the buffing area.
 | submitted by BASE1530 to Tools [link] [comments] |
2023.03.25 20:29 Rusty_Pickle85 Pool heater recommendations
Starting my search for a pool heater. I live in northern Ohio. I have a 33ft, round, above ground pool. I plan to put the heater in a shed near the pool so it will be protected from the elements. I estimated I need a 400k btu heater for the size of my pool. Any vendors I should avoid? Better to go gas versus electric? Appreciate any feedback.
submitted by Rusty_Pickle85 to swimmingpools [link] [comments]
2023.03.25 18:32 FvanSnowchaser ELI5: BTUs and gallons of propane
A gallon of propane is 91,502 BTUs. A heater’s description lists that it produces 58,000 BTUs of heat, but no time frame and most heaters say BTU and not BTU/hr. I want to know how many gallons of propane are needed to run the heater for a given time period.
Can this be calculated from this information?
submitted by FvanSnowchaser to explainlikeimfive [link] [comments]
Can this be calculated from this information?
2023.03.23 04:11 shitinmyshardplate Propane fireplace main fire won't ignite
 | Disclaimer: i know very little and im not sure i understand what i think i know. I don't understand why the pilot light isn't reaching the thermocouple or thermopile. I believe that's part of the reason why the main gas line won't kick on. I've used a screw driver to open the pilot gas line screw all the way but the flame doesn't increase any more than shown here. Pilot light also doesn't light all the way around. If I manually heat the thermopile with a grill lighter, i still cant get the main gas to kick on. My conclusion from google would be replace the assembly but I'd like to get yalls input before I spend the money and effort. submitted by shitinmyshardplate to Fireplaces [link] [comments] |
2023.03.23 02:08 yahwehyeehaw Please help me understand propane heating of a pool
 | I live in Arizona and I'm renting a home with a pool and heater. I haven't used the pool yet because it has been cold. I just found out I have a heater by the pool guy and I believe its 400000 BTU. submitted by yahwehyeehaw to pools [link] [comments] I have family coming to visit me around first week of April and temperatures are expected to be low's in the 50's and high's in the 70-80's. The current pool temperature is around 68 degrees without any heating. We definitely want to use the pool while they are here and that will make or break the vacation. I think possibly 80 degrees would be comfortable (correct me if I'm wrong) I have never had a pool so I'm not sure how to go about this. The tank is 500 gallons and the minimal amount I can fill up is 100 gallons of propane. If I wanted to heat this pool up, ideally should I run it only at night every night and let the day time hours be heated with the sun. Based on what I'm reading, someone said it uses 4 gallons an hour which is roughly 15 dollars an hour. Once I heat the pool, will it stay heated for a bit where I don't need to run it multiple days in a row? The gas company said they will give me an introductory rate to fill up the tank at $2.58 per gallon for the first fill. I only want to use the pool for the week they are here and then I am moving out so I want to know best practices of heating the pool and how many gallons you suggest? Thank you for reading! https://preview.redd.it/2x4gvclb0epa1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b04fa97641392d617c60c187f7026c949f872ab6 https://preview.redd.it/r8gcsalb0epa1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f1933e4c9dfef03e8301d8b706cf70497c186dd |
2023.03.22 09:33 arcticheatpumps How Do You Integrate Air Source Heat Pumps with Solar Thermal Heaters?
 | Are you looking for the most energy-efficient air source heat pumps for cold climates in the North American market? If yes, then you should look no further than the Arctic Heat Pump. Apart from this, the heat pump is recognized for hydronic heating and cooling application. submitted by arcticheatpumps to u/arcticheatpumps [link] [comments] In addition, the Arctic series air source heat pumps for cold climates are perfectly engineered to integrate quickly with a solar thermal heater. With the integration, you can expect to take advantage of increasing overall efficiency and the system’s operational costs. Solar thermal heating system makes a perfect integrating unit to use with an air source heat pump and can add an extra 47,000 BTU per day on an average per every collector. https://preview.redd.it/4mnaaldu49pa1.png?width=960&format=png&auto=webp&s=3be2fe0da057251e4d7159d5ef1b81e8772fe39b For integrating with the solar thermal heating system, the Arctic Heat Pump uses the SunRain Solar Vacuum Tube Collectors that will allow the system to provide hot water even during the coldest winter in North America. The evacuated tube collectors are well-known as the top-rated technology with a ten-year warranty. Their efficiency allows the system to produce energy even on cloudy days. Solar thermal systems have an 80% efficiency rating which means they capture and provide 80% of the solar energy. How Does the Integration of Air Source Heat Pump and Solar Thermal Heater Work?Solar evacuated tube collectors utilize heat pipe technology that helps in transferring solar energy to the heat bulb. The heat bulb can attain temperatures up to 300C. Every collector contains 20 or 30 bulbs, inserted into an insulated copper header, known as a heat exchanger.The heat pipes start transferring heat energy to the header and then to a special glycol heating fluid. Every header comprises 0.6 gallons or 2.2 liters of heating fluid. A temperature sensor is inserted into the header heat exchanger. A second temperature sensor is present in the bottom part of the heat pump buffer tank and a differential controller with a pump system senses temperatures. When the heating fluid present in the top of the collector exceeds the tank’s water temperature, the pump gets switched on starting the energy transfer process. The hot heating fluid circulates through the large heat exchanger present on the bottom part of the tank. After that, the energy is transferred to the storage tank which is again delivered to the remaining home heating system. Integrating air source heat pumps with solar systems makes a perfect combination as they have the same glycol heating fluid. Other than air-to-air heat pumps, hydronic heat pumps, and solar thermal systems have the same energy storage principle of a thermal mass, known as a buffer tank. Most homeowners want to reduce energy costs; so you should consider the advantage of combining air-source heat pumps for cold climates with solar thermal heaters to increase overall performance and minimize operational costs. If you want help with integrating an air source heat pump with a solar thermal system, please contact Arctic Heat Pumps today at 1-866-800-8123. |
2023.03.21 18:25 matttah Pool automation + combining of systems
 | I'm in MA and currently have a gunite pool and a completely separate (pipes, equiptment, etc.) in ground spa. The pool heater died but the spa heater is a 400k BTU natural gas spa rite and nearly new. I'm was thinking of combining the systems so I have a single pump, filter, and heater for both. The equipment for both of them is next to each other. My goal would be to be able to set the schedule for both systems, turn on the heater, etc. remotely as well as make it so I could effectively only use one system (ie the spa in the winter, with pool closed). This also should cut down on the redundant equipment. submitted by matttah to pools [link] [comments] What do you think? While I was doing this I was also considering to convert to SWG and variable speed pump. Some additional notes/comments:
Picture of the existing equiptment: https://preview.redd.it/m4z5o17mm4pa1.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3fffa69c333e8760e81deeda9da11a000477025e https://preview.redd.it/ja75m37mm4pa1.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cc27921e3c2396f6ae97fcb2f30e980d85184f68 Appreciate any feedback on this as well as any recommendations for equipment if you think it's a good idea! Thanks Daum |
2023.03.20 22:53 ryeguyy3d Out of ideas
Hi all, I'm trying to get klipper running on my CR-6 max and I've tried everything I can think of and it's still failing on the 3rd layer.
So far I've tried:
Rotation distance of the z axis - it's perfect at 8 I have a set of 123 blocks for calibration and when I request 25.4mm the 1 inch block fits perfectly underneath.
Calibrated the extruder - it was over extruding a bit so after a little while when I request 50mm of filament it extrudes 50mm
Played with a few slicer settings, I was using prusa slicer so I tried super slicer to see if that made a difference and nothing. I then tried to slow the print down to see if speed was an issue and of course no. Tried lowering extrusion width and nothing
Then I calibrated the strain gauge, which if anyone has done it's a terrible process.
Then I looked at the bed mesh, realized I had fade on starting at layer 1 and ending layer 10 so I took that out and tried again. Nothing.
Then I screwed all the bed screws down all the way and leveled the bed from there. It's a 400x400 and it's now within .08mm variance so I think it's as close to perfect as it's ever been.
Then is said f it and went back to marlin and have perfect prints.
I have to be missing something... I'll post my printer file if anyone smarter than me can take a look.
Printer file:
[display_status]
[pause_resume]
[gcode_macro PAUSE] description: Pause the actual running print rename_existing: PAUSE_BASE
[idle_timeout] gcode: {% if printer.pause_resume.is_paused %} M117 Idle, turning off hotend SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=extruder TARGET=0 {% else %} TURN_OFF_HEATERS M84 {% endif %} timeout: 28800 [gcode_macro RESUME] description: Resume the actual running print rename_existing: RESUME_BASE gcode: ##### read E from pause macro ##### {% set E = printer["gcode_macro PAUSE"].extrudefloat %} #### get VELOCITY parameter if specified #### {% if 'VELOCITY' in paramsupper %} {% set get_params = ('VELOCITY=' + params.VELOCITY) %} {%else %} {% set get_params = "" %} {% endif %} ##### end of definitions ##### {% if printer.extruder.can_extrudelower == 'true' %} G91 G1 E{E} F2100 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Extruder not hot enough")} {% endif %} RESUME_BASE {get_params}
[gcode_macro CANCEL_PRINT] description: Cancel the actual running print rename_existing: CANCEL_PRINT_BASE gcode: TURN_OFF_HEATERS {% if "xyz" in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} G91 G1 Z4.5 F300 G90 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Printer not homed")} {% endif %} G28 X Y {% set y_park = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.yfloat - 5.0 %} G1 Y{y_park} F2000 M84 CANCEL_PRINT_BASE
[stepper_x] step_pin: PB8 dir_pin: !PB7 enable_pin: !PC3 rotation_distance: 40 microsteps: 16 endstop_pin: PC4 position_min: -5 position_endstop: -5 position_max: 405 homing_speed: 80
[stepper_y] step_pin: PB6 dir_pin: PB5 enable_pin: !PC3 rotation_distance: 40 microsteps: 16 endstop_pin: PC5 position_min: -2 position_endstop: -2 position_max: 405 homing_speed: 80
[stepper_z] step_pin: PB4 dir_pin: !PB3 enable_pin: !PC3 rotation_distance: 8 microsteps: 16 endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop position_min: -1.5 position_max: 405 homing_speed: 2 second_homing_speed: 1 homing_retract_dist: 2.0
[extruder] max_extrude_only_distance: 1000.0 step_pin: PC2 dir_pin: !PB9 enable_pin: !PC3 rotation_distance: 7.854739 microsteps: 16 nozzle_diameter: 0.600 filament_diameter: 1.750 heater_pin: PB14 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PB1 pressure_advance = .05
[heater_bed] heater_pin: PB13 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PB0 control: pid
[fan] pin: PB15 kick_start_time: 1.0
[mcu] serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 restart_method: command
[probe] pin: PA4 x_offset: 0.0 y_offset: 0.0
[filament_switch_sensor filament_sensor] pause_on_runout: true switch_pin: !PA7
[static_digital_output daughterboard_communication] pins: !PA5
[bed_mesh] speed: 120 mesh_min: 15,15 #need to handle head distance with bl_touch mesh_max: 385,385 #max probe range probe_count: 6,6 mesh_pps: 2, 3 algorithm: bicubic bicubic_tension: 0.2
[safe_z_home] home_xy_position:200,200 speed: 100 z_hop: 5 z_hop_speed: 3
[printer] kinematics: cartesian max_velocity: 500 max_accel: 5000 max_z_velocity: 10 max_z_accel: 1000 square_corner_velocity: 5.0
[gcode_macro LED_ON] gcode: SET_PIN PIN=led VALUE=1
[gcode_macro LED_OFF] gcode: SET_PIN PIN=led VALUE=0
[gcode_macro START_PRINT] gcode: {% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMPdefault(75)float %} {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMPdefault(195)float %} # Start bed heating (but don't wait for it) M140 S{BED_TEMP} # Use absolute coordinates G90 # Reset the G-Code Z offset (adjust Z offset if needed) SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=-0.580 # Home the printer G28 # Move the nozzle near the bed G1 Z5 F3000 # Move the nozzle very close to the bed G1 Z0.15 F300 # Wait for bed to reach temperature M190 S{BED_TEMP} # Set and wait for nozzle to reach temperature M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} G29
[gcode_macro M600]
gcode:
submitted by ryeguyy3d to klippers [link] [comments]
So far I've tried:
Rotation distance of the z axis - it's perfect at 8 I have a set of 123 blocks for calibration and when I request 25.4mm the 1 inch block fits perfectly underneath.
Calibrated the extruder - it was over extruding a bit so after a little while when I request 50mm of filament it extrudes 50mm
Played with a few slicer settings, I was using prusa slicer so I tried super slicer to see if that made a difference and nothing. I then tried to slow the print down to see if speed was an issue and of course no. Tried lowering extrusion width and nothing
Then I calibrated the strain gauge, which if anyone has done it's a terrible process.
Then I looked at the bed mesh, realized I had fade on starting at layer 1 and ending layer 10 so I took that out and tried again. Nothing.
Then I screwed all the bed screws down all the way and leveled the bed from there. It's a 400x400 and it's now within .08mm variance so I think it's as close to perfect as it's ever been.
Then is said f it and went back to marlin and have perfect prints.
I have to be missing something... I'll post my printer file if anyone smarter than me can take a look.
Printer file:
!CR-6 Max
printer_size: 400x400x400
version: 3.4
This file contains pin mappings for the Creality CR-6 SE
with a V4.5.3 board.
To use this config, during "make menuconfig" select the STM32F103
with a "28KiB bootloader" and serial (on USART1 PA10/PA9)
Flash this firmware on the MCU by copying "out/klipper.bin" to an SD
card and turning the printer on with the card inserted. The firmware
filename must end in ".bin" and must not match the last filename
that was flashed.
The machine itself includes a small router that can run a Klipper
frontend. You don't need to buy a single-board computer.
See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.
fluidd set
[virtual_sdcard] path: /home/orangepi/printer_1_data/gcodes[display_status]
[pause_resume]
[gcode_macro PAUSE] description: Pause the actual running print rename_existing: PAUSE_BASE
change this if you need more or less extrusion
variable_extrude: 1.0 gcode: ##### read E from pause macro ##### {% set E = printer["gcode_macro PAUSE"].extrudefloat %} ##### set park positon for x and y ##### # default is your max posion from your printer.cfg {% set x_park = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.xfloat - 5.0 %} {% set y_park = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.yfloat - 5.0 %} ##### calculate save lift position ##### {% set max_z = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.zfloat %} {% set act_z = printer.toolhead.position.zfloat %} {% if act_z < (max_z - 2.0) %} {% set z_safe = 2.0 %} {% else %} {% set z_safe = max_z - act_z %} {% endif %} ##### end of definitions ##### PAUSE_BASE G91 {% if printer.extruder.can_extrudelower == 'true' %} G1 E-{E} F2100 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Extruder not hot enough")} {% endif %} {% if "xyz" in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} G1 Z{z_safe} F900 G90 G1 X{x_park} Y{y_park} F6000 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Printer not homed")} {% endif %}[idle_timeout] gcode: {% if printer.pause_resume.is_paused %} M117 Idle, turning off hotend SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=extruder TARGET=0 {% else %} TURN_OFF_HEATERS M84 {% endif %} timeout: 28800 [gcode_macro RESUME] description: Resume the actual running print rename_existing: RESUME_BASE gcode: ##### read E from pause macro ##### {% set E = printer["gcode_macro PAUSE"].extrudefloat %} #### get VELOCITY parameter if specified #### {% if 'VELOCITY' in paramsupper %} {% set get_params = ('VELOCITY=' + params.VELOCITY) %} {%else %} {% set get_params = "" %} {% endif %} ##### end of definitions ##### {% if printer.extruder.can_extrudelower == 'true' %} G91 G1 E{E} F2100 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Extruder not hot enough")} {% endif %} RESUME_BASE {get_params}
[gcode_macro CANCEL_PRINT] description: Cancel the actual running print rename_existing: CANCEL_PRINT_BASE gcode: TURN_OFF_HEATERS {% if "xyz" in printer.toolhead.homed_axes %} G91 G1 Z4.5 F300 G90 {% else %} {action_respond_info("Printer not homed")} {% endif %} G28 X Y {% set y_park = printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.yfloat - 5.0 %} G1 Y{y_park} F2000 M84 CANCEL_PRINT_BASE
[stepper_x] step_pin: PB8 dir_pin: !PB7 enable_pin: !PC3 rotation_distance: 40 microsteps: 16 endstop_pin: PC4 position_min: -5 position_endstop: -5 position_max: 405 homing_speed: 80
[stepper_y] step_pin: PB6 dir_pin: PB5 enable_pin: !PC3 rotation_distance: 40 microsteps: 16 endstop_pin: PC5 position_min: -2 position_endstop: -2 position_max: 405 homing_speed: 80
[stepper_z] step_pin: PB4 dir_pin: !PB3 enable_pin: !PC3 rotation_distance: 8 microsteps: 16 endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop position_min: -1.5 position_max: 405 homing_speed: 2 second_homing_speed: 1 homing_retract_dist: 2.0
[extruder] max_extrude_only_distance: 1000.0 step_pin: PC2 dir_pin: !PB9 enable_pin: !PC3 rotation_distance: 7.854739 microsteps: 16 nozzle_diameter: 0.600 filament_diameter: 1.750 heater_pin: PB14 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PB1 pressure_advance = .05
control: pid
tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target
pid_kp = 22.692
pid_ki = 1.104
pid_kd = 116.580
min_temp: 0 max_temp: 265[heater_bed] heater_pin: PB13 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PB0 control: pid
tuned for stock hardware with 50 degree Celsius target
pid_kp = 67.350 pid_ki = 1.754 pid_kd = 646.562 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 130[fan] pin: PB15 kick_start_time: 1.0
set heater fan runnig with temperature over 60;
[heater_fan my_nozzle_fan] pin: PD2 max_power: 1.0 shutdown_speed : 0 heater:extruder heater_temp : 60 fan_speed : 1.0[mcu] serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 restart_method: command
[probe] pin: PA4 x_offset: 0.0 y_offset: 0.0
z_offset: 0.2
speed: 1 lift_speed: 5 samples_tolerance: 0.05 samples_tolerance_retries: 2 samples: 3[filament_switch_sensor filament_sensor] pause_on_runout: true switch_pin: !PA7
[static_digital_output daughterboard_communication] pins: !PA5
[bed_mesh] speed: 120 mesh_min: 15,15 #need to handle head distance with bl_touch mesh_max: 385,385 #max probe range probe_count: 6,6 mesh_pps: 2, 3 algorithm: bicubic bicubic_tension: 0.2
[safe_z_home] home_xy_position:200,200 speed: 100 z_hop: 5 z_hop_speed: 3
[mcu rpi]
serial: /tmp/klipper_host_mcu
[adxl345]
cs_pin: rpi:None
spi_speed: 2000000
spi_bus: spidev2.0
#[resonance_tester] #accel_chip: adxl345 #accel_per_hz: 70 #probe_points: 200,200,20[input_shaper]
shaper_type_x = 2hump_ei
shaper_freq_x = 81.8
shaper_type_y = mzv
shaper_freq_y = 38.0
[output_pin led] pin: PA6[printer] kinematics: cartesian max_velocity: 500 max_accel: 5000 max_z_velocity: 10 max_z_accel: 1000 square_corner_velocity: 5.0
[gcode_macro LED_ON] gcode: SET_PIN PIN=led VALUE=1
[gcode_macro LED_OFF] gcode: SET_PIN PIN=led VALUE=0
[gcode_macro START_PRINT] gcode: {% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMPdefault(75)float %} {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMPdefault(195)float %} # Start bed heating (but don't wait for it) M140 S{BED_TEMP} # Use absolute coordinates G90 # Reset the G-Code Z offset (adjust Z offset if needed) SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=-0.580 # Home the printer G28 # Move the nozzle near the bed G1 Z5 F3000 # Move the nozzle very close to the bed G1 Z0.15 F300 # Wait for bed to reach temperature M190 S{BED_TEMP} # Set and wait for nozzle to reach temperature M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} G29
[gcode_macro M600]
gcode:
{% set X = params.Xdefault(50)float %} {% set Y = params.Ydefault(0)float %} {% set Z = params.Zdefault(10)float %} SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=M600_state PAUSE G91 G1 E-.8 F2700 G1 Z{Z} G90 G1 X{X} Y{Y} F3000 G91 G1 E-50 F1000 SET_IDLE_TIMEOUT TIMEOUT=7200 RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=M600_state [include timelapse.cfg]
[gcode_macro G29] #界面中增加G29指令
gcode:
G28
bed_mesh_calibrate
G1 X0 Y0 Z10 F4200
[gcode_arcs]resolution: 1.0
*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG --------------------
*# DO NOT EDIT THIS BLOCK OR BELOW. The contents are auto-generated.
*
*# [bed_mesh default]
*# version = 1
*# points =
*# -0.117500, -0.105000, -0.182500, -0.217500, -0.125000, -0.072500
*# -0.065000, -0.087500, -0.105000, -0.087500, -0.050000, -0.042500
*# 0.005000, -0.050000, -0.082500, -0.072500, 0.002500, 0.015000
*# -0.017500, -0.045000, -0.107500, -0.075000, -0.017500, 0.007500
*# 0.025000, -0.027500, -0.027500, -0.072500, -0.075000, 0.032500
*# 0.032500, 0.025000, -0.050000, -0.037500, -0.015000, -0.005000
*# tension = 0.2
*# min_x = 15.0
*# algo = lagrange
*# y_count = 6
*# mesh_y_pps = 2
*# min_y = 15.0
*# x_count = 6
*# max_y = 385.0
*# mesh_x_pps = 2
*# max_x = 385.0
*
*# [input_shaper]
*# shaper_type_x = 2hump_ei
*# shaper_freq_x = 55.0
*# shaper_type_y = mzv
*# shaper_freq_y = 34.2
*
*# [extruder]
*# control = pid
*# pid_kp = 26.402
*# pid_ki = 1.408
*# pid_kd = 123.761
*
*# [probe]
*# z_offset = -0.580
2023.03.20 08:33 CovertADV New Build Review
I am looking into getting a new in-ground Gunite pool built. I am interested in seeing feedback from the experts here on the specs and equipment selection. Anything not mentioned I should consider?
Here are some quick stats about the pool:
Size: 30’ x 15’ (rectangle)
Depth: 3’6” - 6’
Baja: 9’3” x 6’ / 12” deep
3 entry steps / 1 deep end bench / step
Spa: 6 jets / 3’6” deep
Equipment:
1 - Jandy Flopro variable speed (2.7 Hp) pump and motor
1 - Jandy 48 sqft DEV Diatomaceous Earth filter
1 - Jandy 400,000 BTU energy-efficient stack-less heater
3 - LED white lights for pool - 100’ cords
1 - LED white light for spa - 100’ cord
1 - Four Function Remote System
I plan on asking for color LEDs
Thanks in advance
submitted by CovertADV to pools [link] [comments]
Here are some quick stats about the pool:
Size: 30’ x 15’ (rectangle)
Depth: 3’6” - 6’
Baja: 9’3” x 6’ / 12” deep
3 entry steps / 1 deep end bench / step
Spa: 6 jets / 3’6” deep
Equipment:
1 - Jandy Flopro variable speed (2.7 Hp) pump and motor
1 - Jandy 48 sqft DEV Diatomaceous Earth filter
1 - Jandy 400,000 BTU energy-efficient stack-less heater
3 - LED white lights for pool - 100’ cords
1 - LED white light for spa - 100’ cord
1 - Four Function Remote System
I plan on asking for color LEDs
Thanks in advance
2023.03.19 23:21 rustprony Tank water heater and adding tankless to work in tandem (replacing one of my two 50 gallon tank water heaters that isn’t working).
I have two Rheem 50 gallon hot water heater tanks made in 2012. Sewerage and water board hit the gas main in the street (another story) and our gas was turned off. When they turned it back on One lit fine, the other didn’t. I removed the burner and noticed a lot of rust. I vacuumed up the rust and cleaned the pilot. Put it all back together. It lit but now I smell gas when it’s pruning. I have it off and am thinking it’s time to replace it since it’s 11 years old.
The dilemma is, I really want tankless for gas bill savings and the recirculate feature some have. I have a 1” line supplying both heaters. There is a reducing T reducing to 1/2” for first heater that still works, and continuing on to other heater that is broken at 3/4”. Then another reducing T reducing to 1/2” for second heater and then continuing on as 1/2” to my laundry room drier. I am reading that 1/2” supply on my second heater that is broken may not be enough unless close to larger line. Can I put in the maximum BTU heater that a 1/2” line could supply and being it will work with the tank in tandem it won’t be an issue keeping hot water? When the other heater goes out, would two 1/2” tankless heaters be enough. We have 3 showers, 4 faucets, dishwasher, and washing machine.
submitted by rustprony to Plumbing [link] [comments]
The dilemma is, I really want tankless for gas bill savings and the recirculate feature some have. I have a 1” line supplying both heaters. There is a reducing T reducing to 1/2” for first heater that still works, and continuing on to other heater that is broken at 3/4”. Then another reducing T reducing to 1/2” for second heater and then continuing on as 1/2” to my laundry room drier. I am reading that 1/2” supply on my second heater that is broken may not be enough unless close to larger line. Can I put in the maximum BTU heater that a 1/2” line could supply and being it will work with the tank in tandem it won’t be an issue keeping hot water? When the other heater goes out, would two 1/2” tankless heaters be enough. We have 3 showers, 4 faucets, dishwasher, and washing machine.
2023.03.19 23:10 Gooserapper Crazy discounts!!
 | submitted by Gooserapper to Lowes [link] [comments] |
2023.03.19 22:48 Aazardian Custom 1.1kW Tent Wood Stove, 3500BTU. Copper Pipe/Aluminum Tube/200w TPV Peltier
 | "TPV 1.1kW MAGMA-WATT QUART" TENT WOOD STOVE
In laymen's terms that means: 4.5g/hr, past this a safe intake/outlet/etc Concept images: We are trying to build an improved: Reasonably Rucksack Portable Heat/Cook/Lumens/Power (100w-200w), Interior Safe, Wood Stove This design shows the basic concept, with like 0% care taken to efficiency or ease of use/safety This is a commercial unit, NOT DESIGNED FOR INTERIORS This DIY "Pocket Rocket" is a semi-mass stove, its really genius for "empty & pack, in itself" design BUT: Steel/Aluminum (and Titanium) of this thickness just arnt going to hold up over time $20 Pocket Rocket Stove, GRAVEL was used not POWDERED CLAY Cheap'ing out > Soup Cans &, fire safe, Approx R-25 (2", 360 degree) "Thermo-Rock" insulation Looks \"Hobo\" basic, wont last a year... But its like $5, PRETTY SAFE & will heat 100sq ft This idea is so good/simple, I dont many have thought of it (forest for the trees) Copper might melt/slump BUT it wont crack easily under rapid heating/cooling Forbidden Micro Tech: Hi-BTU (for scale) ONE PINT WOODSTOVE Holy Gail for 4-Season Hikers, Nomads and Vagabonds, "KISS MULTI-FUEL STOVE" ADDED BONUS! >> It wont kill you with carbon monoxide if build is good (TEST IT, with a meter) PORTABILITY: KISS Micro-Tent Stove, KIT PACKED BUT OPEN TO VIEW KISS Micro Tent Stove, PACKED/CLOSED >> ON A MATCHBOX!
Its Called "Thermophotovoltaic energy conversion", works well combined with 200w foldup solar panel This is the "Setback Effect", for use with a backpackers solar panel when its dark (or cold) "MAGMA-WATT QUART" CAN RUN A 1cu ft FREEZER (-5C), 3 cu ft fridge (2.5C) or Boil/Cool 1G water (adjust for combo) Half size possible, bigger also possible, but a unit able to exceed 770F WILL DESTROY PELTIER
Peltier "sandwiched" in "top thermal mass's" air gap
Damper can be (painfully calibrated) passive spring thermostat'ed to 700F (or even "settings") |
2023.03.19 05:04 Aazardian Low Wattage Appliances
 | My list of "Low Wattage Appliances" submitted by Aazardian to u/Aazardian [link] [comments]
PRE-POST: "TPV 1kW MAGMA-WATT QUART" TENT WOOD STOVEHOT AIWATER, FAN & 200w GENERATOR + 50aH BATTERYIts Called "Thermophotovoltaic energy conversion", works well combined with 200w foldup solar panel"MAGMA-WATT QUART" CAN RUN A 1cu ft FREEZER (-5C), 3 cu ft fridge (2.5C) or Boil/Cool 1G water (adjust for combo) Half size possible, bigger also possible, but a unit able to exceed 770F WILL DESTROY PELTIER
Peltier "sandwiched" in "top thermal mass's" air gap
Concept, commercial unit shown paint cans Aluminum Copper Fan fire (heat) = power //MAIN POSTAIO UNITS
Toaster (Slice)Maybe the hardest to source, neXt to microwave!
Polar 400w Electric Toaster, model: Pt-2 (you can turn it into a 200w unit!)
Electric Hot plate
Boil water
Slow Cook
Oven (Bay Cooker)
Air fryer
MicrowaveSO HARD TO FIND INFO ON, BUT HERE IS THE MODEL AND MAKER
Fridge/Freezer
Pump wateliquid (2 meter lift)
Hot (ShoweWash) Water
Flow of water
Laundry Combo
|
2023.03.17 16:59 IDidReadTheSideBar Max-E-Therm Vs Master Temp
Are one of these heaters better thanthe other? I’m looking for 400k btu unit.
submitted by IDidReadTheSideBar to swimmingpools [link] [comments]
- 40x20 salt water pool
2023.03.17 04:03 sboy666 Heat pumps in the South
We live just outside Houston TX, where natural gas is cheap but winters are mild. Our big demand here is cooling. Our current system is super old, 30 yrs maybe for compressor and 20 yrs for the gas furnace.
We are getting quotes for Heat Pumps. Mostly because we want to go green.
Concerns: Already the first guy to come up kept saying 'Are you sure you don't want to keep the gas furnace?' about 3 times. He stated that below 40 I wont have heat, or will lose heat faster than the Heat Pump can replace. I even asked about heat strips and he gave me 3 options, 10k btu, 15k btu or 20k btu but then said 10k is enough here. Should I be concerned?
I think its just Houston (oil & gas) and this is new for most of the local companies. 2 yrs ago when I was looking for quotes I had zero companies that even offered Heat Pumps, now I am seeing lots of options, ie, goodman, rheem and trane all have options.
-background- house built in 1979, 2700 SF, two story, bad insulation and crappy siding =leaky but were working on it (replacing siding-diy). Single zone ducted. Most windows replaced from single pane to double pain low e. New attic insulation, solar, hybrid water heater, whole house dehumidifier.
Any recommendations of installers in my area(if allowed to even ask here)? or equipment (good or bad)? I want the top of the line, maybe even ad zones/upstairs/downstairs. 2 Stages or Variable?
Less important: What should I expect to pay?
thanks in advance
submitted by sboy666 to heatpumps [link] [comments]
We are getting quotes for Heat Pumps. Mostly because we want to go green.
Concerns: Already the first guy to come up kept saying 'Are you sure you don't want to keep the gas furnace?' about 3 times. He stated that below 40 I wont have heat, or will lose heat faster than the Heat Pump can replace. I even asked about heat strips and he gave me 3 options, 10k btu, 15k btu or 20k btu but then said 10k is enough here. Should I be concerned?
I think its just Houston (oil & gas) and this is new for most of the local companies. 2 yrs ago when I was looking for quotes I had zero companies that even offered Heat Pumps, now I am seeing lots of options, ie, goodman, rheem and trane all have options.
-background- house built in 1979, 2700 SF, two story, bad insulation and crappy siding =leaky but were working on it (replacing siding-diy). Single zone ducted. Most windows replaced from single pane to double pain low e. New attic insulation, solar, hybrid water heater, whole house dehumidifier.
Any recommendations of installers in my area(if allowed to even ask here)? or equipment (good or bad)? I want the top of the line, maybe even ad zones/upstairs/downstairs. 2 Stages or Variable?
Less important: What should I expect to pay?
thanks in advance
2023.03.16 22:33 jaguarsinmexico Offset new Climate Controlled Shed
I have an existing 8,84kw PV system tied to the grid at my house in Massachusetts. This has been enough to more than cover our annual usage, but this year we added and extra 260sq foot climate controlled shed that I used for work. The shed is heated/cooled using a 12kBTU 240v mini split. During the hours I work I keep it comfrotable and when I leave I allow the temperature to fall (or rise) to a temp that's safe for the stuff stored inside. Once there, the mini-split maintains that temperature. Obviously, my electrical usage has gone up so I'm trying to come up with a plan to offset it, perhaps with a DIY solar situation. Based on my new electric bill, I suspect I can offset the cost with 4KwH/day on average from a solar installation. Looking for ideas how to build that out. so far I have the following notions:
1) 1kw solar installation on the roof of the shed, tied to the shed/house mains through an inexpensive inverter to the shed. This may or may not require permitting, but my goal is to skip permitting if possible.
2) 1kw off-grid installation on shed roof, tied to 2 or more batteries that will source the non-heating elements in the shed. this is a couple of computers, some speakers, lights, wifi outlets, and probably a bunch of dc converters. I can potentially add a space heater to this circuit to offset some of the work the mini split needs to do in the winter to maintain a safe temperature for the stuff in the shed.
3) Based off of #2, I've heard of hybrid battery changers that will charge from the PV when available, and maintain using mains as necessary when PV isn't available. Maybe at this point I could also run the mini split from that same circuit?
3) less preferred, call in a contractor to create a new 1kw solar installation, and whatever all that entails
Any other ideas to get this done?
submitted by jaguarsinmexico to diySolar [link] [comments]
1) 1kw solar installation on the roof of the shed, tied to the shed/house mains through an inexpensive inverter to the shed. This may or may not require permitting, but my goal is to skip permitting if possible.
2) 1kw off-grid installation on shed roof, tied to 2 or more batteries that will source the non-heating elements in the shed. this is a couple of computers, some speakers, lights, wifi outlets, and probably a bunch of dc converters. I can potentially add a space heater to this circuit to offset some of the work the mini split needs to do in the winter to maintain a safe temperature for the stuff in the shed.
3) Based off of #2, I've heard of hybrid battery changers that will charge from the PV when available, and maintain using mains as necessary when PV isn't available. Maybe at this point I could also run the mini split from that same circuit?
3) less preferred, call in a contractor to create a new 1kw solar installation, and whatever all that entails
Any other ideas to get this done?
2023.03.16 20:12 npag Opinions on Fiberglass Pool Quote?
Hello all!
I am nearing decision time on a new fiberglass pool install. I am in central Indiana and the pool company uses Latham pools. The company has been in business for 30 years and has an excellent reputation locally.
Base pool install package is $62,800 and includes: 12' x 25' shell, excavation and dirt hauling, gravel fill, 3 sq. ft. concrete surround, Pentair variable speed pump, Pentair cartridge filter, Frog Leap twin sanitizing system, 1 white LED, water, plumbing, $2,500 electrical allowance, permitting, maintenance/cleaning and safety equipment, and 4 hours of rough grading after concrete.
I am also planning to add an auto cover with undertrack for $13,800, up to $5,000 for additional concrete, and a 175k BTU Pentair natural gas heater for $3,400. I have the option for a 90k BTU heat pump for $4,600, or 250k BTU gas heater for $4,000.
Total quote is $86,000.
What am I missing? Other unlisted costs in my mind are basic post-install landscaping and increased home/liability insurance which I am waiting on a quote for. I won't need crane rental, fortunately!
Let me know your thoughts!
submitted by npag to pools [link] [comments]
I am nearing decision time on a new fiberglass pool install. I am in central Indiana and the pool company uses Latham pools. The company has been in business for 30 years and has an excellent reputation locally.
Base pool install package is $62,800 and includes: 12' x 25' shell, excavation and dirt hauling, gravel fill, 3 sq. ft. concrete surround, Pentair variable speed pump, Pentair cartridge filter, Frog Leap twin sanitizing system, 1 white LED, water, plumbing, $2,500 electrical allowance, permitting, maintenance/cleaning and safety equipment, and 4 hours of rough grading after concrete.
I am also planning to add an auto cover with undertrack for $13,800, up to $5,000 for additional concrete, and a 175k BTU Pentair natural gas heater for $3,400. I have the option for a 90k BTU heat pump for $4,600, or 250k BTU gas heater for $4,000.
Total quote is $86,000.
What am I missing? Other unlisted costs in my mind are basic post-install landscaping and increased home/liability insurance which I am waiting on a quote for. I won't need crane rental, fortunately!
Let me know your thoughts!